Istanbul - now the Good

Outside of Sultanahmet, men are not aggressive and the city is fun and lively.  People were very nice and friendly and helpful.  Istanbul has a lot if interesting history (a lot of it is in Sultanahmet, you just have to get used to the men there).  I needed to pick up insulin in the university district.  This was my first time to a new part of town, and I couldn't believe the difference.  I stopped for lunch at a cafe, there was no harassment, prices were quite cheap, and the food seemed better.  The server was excited about buffalos in the US, and he taught chess to children.  He gave me a copy of his book that he wrote that he uses to teach kids (side note:  I do know how to play chess.  I learned in sixth grade.  I feel the need to explain that here because I know that sexist men reading this will assume that I don't know how to play).  It was nice to experience a new part of the city, and this was the first day I didn't feel like a target here.
I really liked the Beyoglu neighborhood.  It felt very European, but there are lots of cute shops and cafes and bars, and the shop owners are not harassing you off the street.  This is where the medieval Galata Tower is.